In today's economy every dollar counts--so why not sell that not-so-old PC you don't use anymore on Craigslist or Ebay? Odds are, a penny-pinching buyer is out there eager to save big by buying your second-hand hardware. After all, anything is better than having your recently retired PC gather dust bunnies in your closet.
To help you sell your old PC, we've put together a list of the four steps you need to take to make sure that your PC is ready for a second life of service. We also answer some of the common questions about selling a used PC, such as how to estimate what it's worth, and what legal issues are involved when selling a PC loaded with expensive software (can you charge extra?).
The Four Key Steps
Run a scan: It's critical to scan your old computer for malware, including viruses, spyware, and worms. You don't want to pass along security threats to the next owner. Viruses and spyware can also significantly slow the system down. Getting rid of them is not only playing it safe, it also gives the PC some pep. If you're not already running an antivirus/antispyware app, don't rush out and buy one. PC World has selected eight great security tools that'll do the job for free.
Move your data to your new computer: Naturally, you'll want to transfer all of your files, programs, browser favorites, passwords, and other essentials. For a direct PC-to-PC transfer, an inexpensive Windows utility like Laplink's PCmover is a good option. The $70 shrinkwrap version includes a USB 2.0 cable, or you could save $10 by downloading the app sans cable. If you back up your files to an external hard drive or online service, you could restore them to a new system. And remember that when it comes to backups, personal data--including photos, videos, and music--should be your top backup priority. You can always reinstall applications, but not your kids' pics.
Wipe the drive clean: Don't leave personal and financial data, including credit card, bank account, and social security numbers, on your hard drive. Sensitive files that you've 'deleted' still exist on the disk and are very easy to recover. It's critical that you render this data unreadable. A drive-erasing tool like DBAN is a must. Another option is to wipe the drive completely and reinstall Windows. (Nobody wants to buy a PC without an operating system.) This wipe/reinstall process should take eight easy steps, but be sure to transfer or back up your data before you begin.
Pep up your old system: What if a potential buyer wants to figuratively kick the tires of your PC before plunking down cash for it? Slow system performance can easily scuttle the deal. You might want to install one or more free utilities that will speed up and tweak your PC. For instance, if Windows starts up too slowly, you might try StartUpLite to streamline startup and eliminate unnecessary overhead. And Vista Services Optimizer zaps unnecessary background services that slow Windows Vista.
Common Questions
How much is my used computer worth? A good way to determine a fair asking price for your computer is to go to eBay's home page, enter the manufacturer's name and model number (for example, Gateway MX8734) in the Search field, and click the Search button. On the search results page, go to Refine Search, scroll down to Condition, and click Used. The results will show what eBay buyers are asking for PCs like yours.
Another way to estimate how much your system is worth is by checking with eBay again and searching for completed auctions. First sign in to your eBay account and go to Advanced Search. Next, type in the model number of your old desktop or notebook into eBay Search and select 'Completed Listings.' The search results will deliver what people actually paid for auction items. Here are Ebay's instructions.
We found that an old Dell Dimension 8300 recently sold for $160--not bad.
Do I have to uninstall software that I put on the PC?
Let's say your notebook has a copy of Microsoft Office or Adobe Photoshop. Is it legal to leave the software on the portable, or should you delete it first? The good news is that copyright laws don't prevent you from reselling software. The bad news is that the End User Licensing Agreement (EULA) that you clicked--and probably never read--when installing a program may prevent you from doing so. If you want to play it safe, read the EULA of the apps you want to leave on the PC. If reselling is a no-no, delete them.
What's the best way to market my PC? In most cases, a used PC isn't a big-ticket item, so you'll want to keep marketing costs to a minimum. A free Craigslist ad is an economical option, particularly if you want to sell your computer locally, which is always easiest. To cast a wider net, eBay is a good choice, although you'll have to pay seller fees and probably pack up and ship the computer. For tips on buying and selling on Craigslist, see '10 Craigslist Tips for Power Users'.
In today's economy every dollar counts--so why not sell that not-so-old PC you don't use anymore on Craigslist or Ebay? Odds are, a penny-pinching buyer is out there eager to save big by buying your second-hand hardware. After all, anything is better than having your recently retired PC gather dust bunnies in your closet.
To help you sell your old PC, we've put together a list of the four steps you need to take to make sure that your PC is ready for a second life of service. We also answer some of the common questions about selling a used PC, such as how to estimate what it's worth, and what legal issues are involved when selling a PC loaded with expensive software (can you charge extra?).
The Four Key Steps
Run a scan: It's critical to scan your old computer for malware, including viruses, spyware, and worms. You don't want to pass along security threats to the next owner. Viruses and spyware can also significantly slow the system down. Getting rid of them is not only playing it safe, it also gives the PC some pep. If you're not already running an antivirus/antispyware app, don't rush out and buy one. PC World has selected eight great security tools that'll do the job for free.
Move your data to your new computer: Naturally, you'll want to transfer all of your files, programs, browser favorites, passwords, and other essentials. For a direct PC-to-PC transfer, an inexpensive Windows utility like Laplink's PCmover is a good option. The $70 shrinkwrap version includes a USB 2.0 cable, or you could save $10 by downloading the app sans cable. If you back up your files to an external hard drive or online service, you could restore them to a new system. And remember that when it comes to backups, personal data--including photos, videos, and music--should be your top backup priority. You can always reinstall applications, but not your kids' pics.
Wipe the drive clean: Don't leave personal and financial data, including credit card, bank account, and social security numbers, on your hard drive. Sensitive files that you've 'deleted' still exist on the disk and are very easy to recover. It's critical that you render this data unreadable. A drive-erasing tool like DBAN is a must. Another option is to wipe the drive completely and reinstall Windows. (Nobody wants to buy a PC without an operating system.) This wipe/reinstall process should take eight easy steps, but be sure to transfer or back up your data before you begin.
Pep up your old system: What if a potential buyer wants to figuratively kick the tires of your PC before plunking down cash for it? Slow system performance can easily scuttle the deal. You might want to install one or more free utilities that will speed up and tweak your PC. For instance, if Windows starts up too slowly, you might try StartUpLite to streamline startup and eliminate unnecessary overhead. And Vista Services Optimizer zaps unnecessary background services that slow Windows Vista.
Common Questions
How much is my used computer worth? A good way to determine a fair asking price for your computer is to go to eBay's home page, enter the manufacturer's name and model number (for example, Gateway MX8734) in the Search field, and click the Search button. On the search results page, go to Refine Search, scroll down to Condition, and click Used. The results will show what eBay buyers are asking for PCs like yours.
Another way to estimate how much your system is worth is by checking with eBay again and searching for completed auctions. First sign in to your eBay account and go to Advanced Search. Next, type in the model number of your old desktop or notebook into eBay Search and select 'Completed Listings.' The search results will deliver what people actually paid for auction items. Here are Ebay's instructions.
We found that an old Dell Dimension 8300 recently sold for $160--not bad.
Do I have to uninstall software that I put on the PC?
Let's say your notebook has a copy of Microsoft Office or Adobe Photoshop. Is it legal to leave the software on the portable, or should you delete it first? The good news is that copyright laws don't prevent you from reselling software. The bad news is that the End User Licensing Agreement (EULA) that you clicked--and probably never read--when installing a program may prevent you from doing so. If you want to play it safe, read the EULA of the apps you want to leave on the PC. If reselling is a no-no, delete them.
What's the best way to market my PC? In most cases, a used PC isn't a big-ticket item, so you'll want to keep marketing costs to a minimum. A free Craigslist ad is an economical option, particularly if you want to sell your computer locally, which is always easiest. To cast a wider net, eBay is a good choice, although you'll have to pay seller fees and probably pack up and ship the computer. For tips on buying and selling on Craigslist, see '10 Craigslist Tips for Power Users'.
It used to be a commonly held belief that if you wanted the best bang for your buck in a PC, then you had to build your own. But times change.
PC prices have plummeted and people have started buying laptops as appliancesHow to Buy a Good Cheap Gaming Laptop for Under $500How to Buy a Good Cheap Gaming Laptop for Under $500Finding a good cheap gaming laptop is pretty much impossible, unless you use these tips and tricks to get the most for your money.Read More, using them for up to four years before buying replacements.
So does that mean there’s no value in building your own PC anymore? Or is still possible to get a high-value system for less money? If there are savings, are they enough to be worth the effort? Let’s take a look at some prices to find out.
What the Average PC Needs
Before we start pricing parts, let’s do a quick check of everything we need. Note: We won’t go into the details of which exact parts to get or how to fit them together. Check out our comprehensive guide to building your own PCHow To Build Your Own PCHow To Build Your Own PCIt's very gratifying to build your own PC; as well as intimidating. But the process itself is actually quite simple. We'll walk you through everything you need to know.Read More for that.
Processor
The CPU is the brain of your system and is the first component you should choose (unless you’re building a gaming PC, in which case you might want to start with the graphics card).
There’s a mind-boggling number of processor optionsSo What's the Difference Between Intel's Haswell and Ivy Bridge CPUs?So What's the Difference Between Intel's Haswell and Ivy Bridge CPUs?Looking for a new computer? Those shopping for a new Intel-powered laptop or desktop need to know the differences between the last and the latest generation of Intel processors.Read More available, but for most users, the choice usually boils down to either the Intel Core i3 (entry-level), i5 (mid-range) and i7 (high-end) processors.
Typical Price for CPU: $100-$500
Motherboard
The motherboard is the backbone of your system and the part to which all your other components attach. It also contains USB ports and other ports, and possibly Wi-Fi and Bluetooth radios. You need to ensure that your motherboard is compatible with all of your chosen parts and that it fits in your computer case.
Typical Price for Motherboard: $50-$200
Pc System
You might also consider the Mini-ITX form factor for building your PCHow to Build a Small PC With the Mini-ITX Form FactorHow to Build a Small PC With the Mini-ITX Form FactorWant to build a small PC? Here's how to build a small gaming PC or media center using a Mini-ITX motherboard.Read More.
Memory
RAM is one of the areas that PC manufacturers are notorious for skimping on, which is sad because it’s one of the most effective and most affordable upgradesHow To Upgrade Your Laptop In a Flash: Add a New Hard Drive & Increase RAMHow To Upgrade Your Laptop In a Flash: Add a New Hard Drive & Increase RAMLaptops are not as easy to upgrade as desktops. Many components are simply soldered on to the motherboard and others, though technically replaceable, are restricted by technical skill and cost. There are, however, two upgrades..Read More you can make to your PC. If you want extra RAM in a pre-built machine, it’s almost a given that you will pay way over market value.
Typical Price for Memory: $60-$90 (8GB)
Graphics Card
Depending on the type of system you’re building, the graphics card may be optional.
If you’re building a gaming PC, then you should pick a good graphics cardIntegrated vs. Dedicated Graphics Card: 7 Things You Need to KnowIntegrated vs. Dedicated Graphics Card: 7 Things You Need to KnowWondering if you should use an integrated vs. dedicated graphics card? Here's what you need to know to make your decision.Read More first so that you can build the rest of your system around it. For non-gaming PCs, modern Intel and AMD CPUs have integrated graphics support and will suffice. Most low-end to mid-range PCs make do with this.
Typical Price for GPU: $60-$500
Storage
For storage your choices are between a traditional hard disk drive (HDD) — cheaper, much higher capacity, slower — and a solid state drive5 Things You Should Consider When Buying An SSD5 Things You Should Consider When Buying An SSDThe world of home computing is moving towards solid state drives for storage. Should you buy one?Read More (SSD) — smaller, lower capacity, much faster.
Some higher end systems make use of both, with the operating system stored on the SSD for best performance and data stored on the larger but slower HDD. For the average user, it’s enough to get one. Whether you should pick HDD or SSD will depend on your personal preference.
Typical Price for Storage: $30-$300
Power Supply
The power supply is another area where it’s easy to cut costs. The benefits of paying more include getting a modular unit (which improves airflow within the case) and greater energy efficiency (which may give you savings in the long termCan You Really Save Money By Building A Green PC?Can You Really Save Money By Building A Green PC?Read More).
Most importantly, you need to have the correct wattage for your hardware. This tool on the Asus website helps you identify how much power you need to sustain your intended system.
Typical Price for Power Supply: $40-$200
Fans
You may or may not need extra fans to help keep your system cool. Most computer cases come with at least one fan, and most processors and graphics cards and power supplies each have dedicated fans as well.
If your computer case ends up being too poor at circulating air, you can always install more fans at a later time.
Typical Price for Fans: $20-$100
Case
There are a huge array of case sizes. The most important thing is that it fits your motherboard and all the components attached to it.
Typical Price for Case: $50-$300
Extras and Optionals
On top of the basics, you may need to add a few additional items. These could include a wireless card (if your motherboard doesn’t have one built in) and an optical drive (e.g. a DVD drive) but only if you need oneHow to Play DVDs & Blu-Rays on Windows 10, Even Without a DVD DriveHow to Play DVDs & Blu-Rays on Windows 10, Even Without a DVD DriveWith the removal of Windows Media Center, it has suddenly become more difficult to play DVD and Blu-ray discs on your computer. Fortunately, you have alternatives, including third-party tools or virtual drives.Read More.
We’re going to assume you already have a monitor, mouse, and keyboard, but if you don’t then you’ll have to factor in the price of those, too.
Operating System
When pricing up your custom-built PC, you mustn’t forget to include the cost of an operating system to power it. You can run a Linux distroDistro Indecision: A Cheat's Guide to Choosing a Linux DistributionDistro Indecision: A Cheat's Guide to Choosing a Linux DistributionThis guide is all about how to pick the right distribution, and how to test them before you actually commit to using it, arguably one of the most difficult steps in getting into Linux.Read More like Ubuntu for free, but if you want Windows you’ll need to pay retail prices for it — and retail Windows isn’t exactly cheap.
Windows 10 Home costs around $100 for consumers. In comparison, PC makers were thought to pay between $15 and $50 for a Windows 8.1 licence. A big discount, but not so big that it forces you to decide one way or another.
Estimate Online Pc Desktop Prices
Typical Price for OS: $100
How Much to Build Your Own?
So, you know what you need to buy and roughly how much each part costs. Let’s now take a look at three actual systems and see how much it would cost you to build an equivalent machine.
We’ll get our pre-built PCs from Best Buy and compare them to individual component prices listed at PCPartPicker.com, which also checks for compatibility issues. Check out our look at the PC Part Picker sitePC Part Picker: An Invaluable Resource for First-Time PC BuildersPC Part Picker: An Invaluable Resource for First-Time PC BuildersPlanning to build a PC but not really sure how to get compatible parts? Here's how to use PC Part Picker for an easier build.Read More for more details.
Entry-Level System: $449 vs. $503
The Dell Inspiron Desktop (model I3847-6162BK) is one of the top-selling entry-level PCs at Best Buy. It has an Intel Core i3 processor at 3.7GHz, 8GB RAM, 1TB hard drive storage, and integrated graphics. The normal price is $449.
We were able to price up an equivalent self-built PC for $503, not including the keyboard and mouse that Dell PCs include.
Performance System: $729 vs. $679
Next, the HP Envy desktop (model 750-114) which is for sale at Best Buy for $729.99.
Here are the prices for the key parts:
- CPU: Intel Core i5 3.2GHz — $175.88
- RAM: 12GB 1600MHz — $69.99
- Storage: 2TB 7200rpm — $67.89
- Graphics: Integrated — $0
- OS: Windows 10 — $93.89
- Case: Mid-tower — $68.69
Add in a CPU cooler, motherboard, optical drive, mouse, and keyboard and we’re able to put together an equivalent system for $679.34. That’s a $50 savings, and if you choose Linux over Windows it’s closer to $150.
Gaming System: $1299 vs. $1023
Finally, a gaming system. The Asus model G20AJ-B11 has an i7 processor, GeForce GTX 960 graphics card, and 16GB RAM. The regular price on Best Buy is $1299.99.
Here’s what we get for individual parts:
- CPU: Intel Core i7 4.0GHz — $317.99
- RAM: 16GB 1600MHz — $74.99
- Storage: 2TB 7200rpm — $67.89
- Graphics: GeForce GTX 960 — $209.99
- OS: Windows 8.1 — $86.89
With the other parts, including motherboard, power supply, case, and so on, we were able to get the price to $1023.63. This savings of $276 would enable us to double the RAM or upgrade the graphics card to one even stronger.
If we opted to build a Steam MachineSteam Machines Are Finally Coming! Here's What You Need to KnowSteam Machines Are Finally Coming! Here's What You Need to KnowRead More for gaming instead of using Windows, we’d be able to get the price well below $1000.
Our Recommendation Is…
The pattern seems clear. At the budget end of the market, the margins are so low that it’s difficult to undercut the price of a pre-built PC, and any savings you can make on the hardware will likely be cancelled out by the $100 price of a copy of Windows 10.
When you move toward the mid-range, savings become possible. It may not be enough to warrant the extra effort involved in building your own PCEco-Friendly Computing 101: Buy or Build Silent and Green PCsEco-Friendly Computing 101: Buy or Build Silent and Green PCsComputer fans clog with dust, make horrible noises and waste energy. Why put up with that when consumers can go silent and green? A huge number of options popped up for setting up highly efficient..Read More, but it’s certainly worth exploring.
It’s at the top end of the market where the benefits of building your own PC become pronounced. Not only are you able to make savings on equivalently-specced machines, but you also get to tailor the specs to your exact needs. Broadly speaking, the more niche your PC requirements, the better off you’ll be building your own.
Of course, this is all based on you starting from scratch. The real beauty of a custom-built PC is that you can easily build in future upgrade paths. This enables you to update individual components as needed and keep your PC running for longer than a store-bought model ever could.
For other tools you may not think of when assembling your PC, check out our list of things every PC builder needs9 Things Every PC Builder Needs for a Successful Build9 Things Every PC Builder Needs for a Successful BuildThinking about building your own PC? Don't fit any hardware components until you have these nine things for the best results.Read More.
Image credits: setting a video card by Mny-Jhee via Shutterstock, Intel Core i7 via intel.com, Motherboard via MATSUOKA Kohei, RAM via crucial.com, GTX 970 via nvidia.com, Hard drive via William Warby, Power supply via corsair.com, Fan via Laineema, PC case via corsair.com, DVD drive via yoppy, Build a PC via StooMathiesen
Explore more about: Computer Case, Computer Processor, PC.
- Used to build all the time, but not for several years. Generally when you build everything has its own warranty and support to deal with. If you buy a pre built your dealing with one company for anything warranty. Besides getting drivers, a Windows OS and peace of mind that everything has been tested to work together. Yes, I think building gaming rigs still has some merit to that end of custom builds. But otherwise your better off just finding a deal on a pre built such as refurbished, scratch and dent or end of model clearance.
- These articles are so incredibly helpful. Thank you for taking the time to explain things so simply and able to be understood by someone with only some computer knowledge. I am having to buy a new computer for work (3D modeling-Architecture) and was overwhelmed with where to begin. This had broken down the process so easily that i feel empowered to give it a try. Eternal thanks!
- I'd never buy pre-built PC.. Usually I have some parts like other mentioned like RAM that I can carry over to new computer, also those pre-built machines tends to have intrusion detection setting enabled in bios, that once you open the case you're loosing warranty. With single parts I'm getting warranty for each individually and for me that's most important.
- Been part-picking & assembling my own PCs since before RedHat-6. Kinda helps since not all HW likes TUX! Kinda edgy to eyepoke M$! Here's the skinny .. building your own PC is easy and fun, lots of giggles and nerve-wracking terror .. those mad searches thru GOOGLE for front-panel assignment .. & that first turn-on for the mobo with one RAM stick ( but 2 mebby like my Xeon ) sitting atop the cardboard mobo-box , a power-cord & skin-ground stretched from your PS sitting on the fish-tank and the screw-driver jumping-the-START pins .. BZZZZAT comes the no-OS error message .. WOOO-HOOO you die for that moment of success. By your 2nd/3rd build you get sad then, because the risky smoke-em-up fun part is over and you're just tuning the build success! DAMMMMME neverever go trash WiFi use an eth-wire x10 more reliable and faster, but DO try for parallel-printer and PS/2 ports .
- Over the years I've purchased gaming PC's and I've also built my own. I've learned not to throw money away on the 'latest and greatest' components that will remain that way for all of the next 6 months.
In upgrading my components i currently use a 3rd option. I do business with a local PC shop that i trust and know they're not out to milk me of every dime they can get. I tell them the parts i want (they get the parts from the same place i would get them) to use and they order them and install them for me. If anything goes wrong or doesn't work within that first year they take care of it at no cost to me.
Each to his own likes and situation - it's what works for me. - In the UK I get my components and operating system from a place named Scan (not affiliated). They offer many items at OEM prices for enthusiast and businesses and if you purchase internal hardware (hard-drives, motherboards ect) you are eligible to purchase Windows (whatever version) at an OEM price. All of which cuts a fair amount off the total cost.
- I've been building my own PCs for over a decade now and can't imagine doing it any other way. I do have a need for specialized performance systems however, that require high end graphics cards and lots of RAM. I use my boxes for numerical simulations and occasional gaming.What I've always seen with the prebuild options is that certain components will be underpar, and then there might be extras that you don't need. For example I don't need a WIFI adaptor and I don't need monitor and keyboards usually etc. This means that for the quality of the equipment you are paying a premium for higher end prebuild PCs.I do need quality memory that can be overclocked and I do need an unlocked processor that can be overclocked and I do need high performance cooling. (I prefer fans). I also want a case with a good ventilation and room for additional drives and so forth.To support all this you also typically need a gaming motherboard that supports a high end processor. If you start building a box like this at one of the gaming PC websites you will pay quite a large markup. Thus build your own still rules.For mid to low end boxes it probably doesn't matter. I just usually pass on my old builds to my family members when I'm done and get a few more years out of them anyway.
- What people are also forgetting is that a lot of builders do not start from scratch. Usually there must be something you are carrying over. Even if its a generational leap, you may still be taking along your RAM and HD, which already may save you $100+. To me building is not even about the cost, the abiility to upgrade and OC is the deal breaker, functions that are often limited or even absent is prebuilts. For example I saw a nice $500 dell inspiron with an i5 6500 on amazon. But realized it had a b150 MB and non-upgradable 300W. the only upgrade will be may be faster i7 (still non OC) and low power 750TI
- In the super low budget range, you're better off buying used parts/systems.Right now in my area on Craigslist, there's a guy selling an i7-2600 with stock cooler, a R9 270X 4 GB graphics card, 16 GB DDR3 memory and an Asus P9X79 Deluxe motherboard in a Corsair Air Cube case (albeit with 2 missing drive bay covers) for $80 total.Even if you bought the rest of the parts new ($60 PSU, $15 drive bay covers, $70 SSD, $50 HDD, $100 Windows 10 -- which some people can get free through work/school) you're still talking only $375 for a super solid workstation/gaming box. And it would definitely be possible to shave a few bucks off that figure by buying other parts used. So you'd be looking at something like $250 if you can get Windows free or use Linux. That's an insane value.Of course your mileage may vary. Buying used requires more patience and running around, and if everyone started doing it, prices on good parts in the secondary market would go up. Overall though it's definitely the best option for savvy folks with more time than money. Penny pinchers need to make depreciation work for them rather than against them.
- I always have and always will build my own pc's. Just prefer being able to choose exactly what I want in it and what software to use. Usually, Windows 7 Pro.Currently using a Core 2 Solo homebuilt PC to view this.Nvidia GT170 graphics card
2 GB RAM
Windows server 2008 r2
120 GB HDD - why are you putting a 750watt psu in a machine with no gpu?also buying a separate cooler adding $30 to the price when the stock will work fine for a non-oc build.
- Or hell, who pairs a high-end CPU like an i7 with a GTX 960?There's no benefit gaming performance wise. Which brings up another general issue; most prebuilts nominally meant for games are rife with bottlenecks.
- Just look at prebuilts now, especially from big corps like Best Buy. Total the parts and you'll likely pay more if you bought the same stuff separately. Many builds from stores are getting better - I.e. you're looking at insignificant improvements from getting any other hardware, so that standard i7 build (especially with OS discount) is probably better from a store than buying separately.PC builders need to face the reality that their hobby is becoming more hobby than useful. Sure you can tweak a lot more but if you actually think you're competitive with a store (even small businesses that build PCs), you keep having your fun and being ignorant of how times have really changed.
- It is my hope that you're right, or that you will be someday. Last I checked, building still offered an overall better value, but it certainly ought to be the case that economies of scale and volume discounts let big box retailers offer good-quality PCs at a much better price than what hobbyists could manage on their own. If and when that potential is realized, it will be a win for all gamers, including hobbyists who continue to build their own.Right now when I go on Best Buy's web site and choose the 'pick it up today' option for my local store, I get two low-end Cyberpower PCs and a somewhat unbalanced Asus Rog system with an i7-6700 (locked multiplier), GTX 970, 16 GB of RAM (speed unspecified), 2 TB HDD (no SSD), and unspecified cooling, motherboard and PSU components for $1450.I was able to easily price out a system that more than matched and significantly exceeded it part-for-part for $1401 total (i7-6700k, GTX 1070, 16 GB DDR4-3000 CL15 RAM, Cyrorig H5 Ultimate CPU cooler, a premium Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 motherboard, EVGA SuperNOVA P2 750W 80+ Platinum fully modular power supply, a NZXT 630 case and Windows 10).Maybe if I went into the brick and mortar store I'd find more competitive builds. Overall though I think building is still, for the time being, somewhat more economical.At the lower end, pre-builts are more competitive, especially if you can't get Windows 10 free or discounted through your work or school (which many people can). However, at the low end, the absolute best value involves buying used. Higher-end hardware from two or three CPU/GPU generations depreciate a lot in price but still have outstanding performance compared to new entry-level builds.
- The HP desktop isn't a good comparison. That comes with a mouse, keyboard, anti virus, an optical drive and a wifi card. None of which is included with the authors custom build because he knows it would add up to the same price as the pre built model or higher.I love how these elitists brag about how much money they're saving by building their own PC, when in reality they aren't saving anything. They're just paying for less features that come standard with prebuilt desktops.
- With a custom built PC, you get the ability to easily upgrade specific components when required, and when parts break, you don't have to replace the whole PC. Less features you say? You can overclock on a custom built PC (depending on the CPU you choose). Can't do that on a prebuilt. Also, some motherboards have inbuilt WiFi anyway. Don't forget that antivirus is included in Windows 8, 8.1 and 10 for free (Windows Defender). Building a PC is fun and easy, too. All you need is a screwdriver, no other tools necessary.
- Most of is call all those extras you're talking about bloatware. LolI build custom pcs all the time, it's not about saving money ( which you do ) it's about the experience, and the fact that you custom choose each part to do what you needed it to do.On a gaming machine, there are literally so many ways to save money on some parts, so that you can spend it in other areas and get the best bang for your buck.I just built a pc, it cost me about 2 grand, if I had bought the same pc already put together by a company it would have cost me 2700 bucks.700 dollars for an afternoon of my time? Yep well worth it.
- I bought a brand new Gateway gaming i7 back in 2010. The mobo died within 2 years. I have built PCs ever since. Forget the money. Its the only way to make sure you have quality components.
- Mouse/keyboard combos can be had on amazon for under $20 and are likely to match the quality of anything that comes bundled with a pre-built machine. Beyond that, for many people mouse and keyboard selection is a personal thing, so when those parts are included in a system, enthusiasts would often just discard them anyway -- if they don't already have a mouse/keyboard around that they can use.Antivirus software is generally not worth the trouble. Free antivirus software is available through a few different vendors, including Microsoft, which bundles Windows Defender in with Windows 10. You don't really need any antivirus at all though. A good adblocker like uBlock Origin will do much more to protect your PC than some resource-hogging payware antivirus software.Optical drives are pretty much obsolete -- you might as well complain about prebuilts not having floppy drives. If you want one, it adds $20 to the cost of your system. Everyone I know uses thumb drives and downloading/streaming. Even my HTPC doesn't have an optical drive and it really has nothing to do with cost.A wifi card is, again, not everyone needs (and not all prebuilts include). It's best to connect your main PC via ethernet for speed and stability. Add $11 to your build if you need a wifi dongle.
- do u guys think i would regret building an expensive pc or is it a no regrets situation?
- If you invest well in parts that will allow you to upgrade you will save alot of money in the future and in that case there is no way you would regret it
- I've always built my own systems. Recently though pricing out parts and comparing the cost to a boutique builder (choosing similar parts) it seems to be close to a wash when you factor in shipping. I have also fou,d that when building your own you often come across the inevitable bad part (ram, cpu or mobo) which can be a real head ache diagnosing and swapping out. By contrast most boutique builders test the system with a 24-72 hour burn in period(especially useful if you intend to oc the system parts), this is great especially when paired with some of the overnight service plans some offer. Over all I feel depending on the mark up it seems more cost effective to customize your system from a builder and let them deal with any innevitable problems that arrise when pairing 20 or so high end parts together. I say this after over the past 15 years having built probably 15 to 20 systems for myself and others.
- No pg_hba.conf entry for host. I've built my own, and it was well below $500. For a similar build pre-built PC, it would've cost me upwards of $700. I highly recommend building your own PC, especially if you're gaming on it, since then you can customize everything with it.
- i3, i5 or i7? I take it you're an Intel man...no time for AMD, huh?
- I'm sure others have said it but building your own can save you money in the long run too. Instead of replacing an entire machine, you can recycle parts into your next one.I've only bought 1 pre-built and that's a laptop. When ever I have shopped for a new pc, it always come being much much cheaper for me to build my own because I can re-use parts.
- I have several desktops at home and replace or rebuild them regularly. Buying a ready built computer is definitely easier and less likely to result in headaches. If you factor in time to build and set up a home built PC, then a ready built PC is hard to beat; particularly at the lower end.However, bargain hunting and using on hand parts, like a previous case and power supply, can swing the balance toward build your own. I have put together higher end machines and saved over 50% compared to buying a similar ready built PC, even going with all new parts.For me it very much depends on each particular situation. However, I will say that over the years the computers I have been the most pleased with have been the ones that I built myself.
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- Another reason to build your own PC is that it is easier to upgrade it every 2 or 3 or 4 years. With a standard case, power supply and motherboard form factor, i.e. ATX, it is easy to just upgrade the CPU and mother board.Occasionally you might need a new type of RAM, but everything else is reusable.Recycle and reuse!
- I have built many computers. Best part is I am using one of my old AT/ATX conversion full towers. I had my Windows 7 for school that I did not use thanks to my last board went south, 59.99 for the AMD 970 Motherboard,R7-240 68.99 for my graphics card, 8 gig ripjaws ram from a prior build that the motherboard died, FX 6 core 3.4 for 99.99, SSHD 1TB ror 79.99, 42.90 for my Blu Ray burner, 17 for a dvd burner, salvaged all in one card reader and 1TB hot plug HD, 7bucks for a front 3.5' four port usb salvaged upholder with lighter, 750 PS on sale for 69 new and salvaged Digital and analog TV card. The cost not counting parts from by last build that I reused equals 437.86. Yes, I budget shopped. I refurbished plenty of systems too. I have a old AMD 3500+ Skt-A that needed almost all its capacitors changed, I changed them all out anyways. It is maxed out with two gigs ram, a 120gig IDE HD, six SCSI 9gig HD, a 9200 all in wonder graphics, changed out original beat up case that looked like a heavy persion used as a stepping stool to a full tower. That old thing still runs good I still have my 486DX4 120. A few K6-2s I have been starting to take apart to recycle. I used two slightly cut down Pentium ii heatsinks to replace the poorly designed heat sink on my current system. I usually use older fans because they still work where the newer ones may start making funny noises after a few years of use. It really depends if one has a older system that has parts compatible to the system you want to build. OEMs are nothing more than starter systems except really high end. I use multiple OSes, so recycling saves me big time. At least I am not salvaging techshop rejects like my first two builds, but it is so much cheaper to upgrade and reuse where one can.
- My argument for a low-cost white box PC rather than an OEM comes down to this: My lowest-cost $350 (yes, including the Windows license) PC will still have an SSD. PC Manufacturers treat SSDs like they're more precious than gold, but a 240GB drive can be had for $70 nowadays.Quickly: an AMD A6-5400 CPU, a Gigabyte F2A88XN motherboard, 4GB DDR3, a Rosewill ITX chassis and whichever 240GB SSD is on sale this week. Should be at $250-ish as of mid-October 2015. Add $20 if you think you need a DVD drive. I'd suggest moving up a bit to something with an Intel CPU, but that's a solid general-purpose PC for the money. The Windows license will cost between $70 and $100 for home edition, though grey-market CoAs for Windows 7 cost as little as $30 and Linux is free.My build would also have a quality power supply and a standard and upgradable internal configuration. HP and Acer have recently been shipping what are basically laptop systems inside mini-tower cases for at least some of their low-cost models, machines that can't have an expansion card or an disk drive installed even though the space exists to install one. I also find desktop form factor machines with notebook-class CPUs occasionally.You truly don't know what's being shoved in the OEM vomit box.The white box also won't have a bunch of crapware installed. MUO has an article about how to get rid of that stuff what? Twice a month? One of the best ways to get a machine without the bloat is to load Windows for yourself.Is it a pain in the butt to build a PC? It takes a normal human about 20 minutes to stick all the parts in a case and screw everything down and Windows loads in about 10 minutes off a USB drive. Everything else is just screwing around with settings, something you would probably be doing regardless of what computer you picked.
- Oh I did forget one thing with respect to my new PC, I had an ISO image for Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit and when I was building my system Make Use Of had an article concerning the free upgrade offer from MS to upgrade to Windows 10. In this article they mentioned several sources where you could buy legal licenses for different versions of Windows so I purchased one, I think it cost $50 for Windows 7 Ultimate and I used this when installing the OS on the new PC. Once all of the updates were applied I was invited by MS to upgrade to Windows 10, I also have a free upgrade on my older system but have not decided if I am going to do it or not as I have found several older games that do not run correctly on Windows 10. So currently my new small form factor gaming PC runs Windows 10 and the Steam OS (which is based on Debian Linux).
- I have been building my own desktop gaming/workstations ever since 2001 and have always gotten much more bang for the buck building my systems than buying a prebuilt PC. However I have always built fairly high end systems for gaming and digital art creation along with digital music. If your needs are more typical of 90% of all PC users, checking email, social media and using a word processor and printer then you will do better buying from an OEM. I just built a new small format system in June which cost a little over 1200 USD to build. However the closest prebuilt system with approximately the same components would have cost me around 2200 dollars if purchased from an OEM. There are two reasons I build my own, the first is I have been a dual booter with Linux as my primary OS along with some version of Windows currently Windows 10 Pro on my new PC and Windows 7 ultimate on my older PC. There are no OEMs anywhere that will set this up for you and another reason is I make sure that all the components I buy are Linux friendly. The other reason I build my own are warranties. 99% of all graphics cards as well as mother boards have 3 year warranties from the manufactures, hard drives vary with respect to the length of time their warranties are good for. Some are only good for 2 years fewer have 3 year warranties and some still have 5 year warranties. If you purchase SSDs the average warranty term is 3 years and if you want a 10 year warranty then buy a Samsung 850 pro SSD. When you buy any PC from an OEM even if they contain the exact same components that you would buy (which they don't they opt for the very cheapest that they can get) you only get a one year warranty. Even if you have a Western digital drive that if purchased separately would have a 5 year warranty you still only get one year from what ever OEM you chose. 99% of all ram memory today when purchased to build a PC comes with lifetime warranties. In all the years I have been building my own desktop PCs I have only had one mother board that failed and one video card that gave me problems. The most frequent component that has needed replacement have been hard drives and they are not made like they used to be however today they are priced like the rest of the commodity electronics that you know are only going to last for a short time and then you just throw them away. Knowing this it is wise to keep a current backup system image so when you C drive dies you can quickly get back up and running without loosing any data. I just saw a Segate 1TB HD for $44 USD on Newegg dot com it only comes with a 2 year warranty which given its very low price is amazing that it has any warranty. I own a collection of Samsung external USB 3 hard drives that I use for video and music files along with doing backups of my two desktops PCs. I currently have 5 2 TB drives and 2 5TB drives some purchased back in 2013, the oldest drive contains my Steam game library and has been powered up 24/7 since its purchase, my main work station is on 24/7 and I have not had any problems with any of them. I opened up one of them and they all contain Segate 3.5' hard drives oh and all of these drives have 3 year warranties and despite the fact that they are external USB 3 drives are cheaper then if you purchased the same drive for internal installation. Right now the 2TB drives on NewEgg are only $69 and the 5TB drive are only $129.
- I'd like to put another spin on this story. Warranty. Everyone shrugs it off. Warranty on components (outside of store return policies of roughly 30 days) are manufacturer direct and one year in most cases. Take your part, pay to ship it, wait for its return. My last bad video card was out of my hands for over a month. All components are not made like they were 5 -10 years ago. I did build my own PCs for years but it's more economical, in most cases, to buy a full pic, configured the way you want than it is to build one
- Almost all PC components have a three year warranty. OEM computer systems typically only have a one year warranty. Truth be told, by the time a part is three years old, it's probably not worth the $20 it'll cost to ship back to where you got it, but if you're backing the wrong horse if you're suggesting the OEM PC would be better for that reason.
- I've built PCs and I've bought PCs and I'd offer the following. There are two reasons to choose to build a PC. First, because you like to build things. If you don't, you will probably get frustrated. It's not hard but it's not a Lego kit and there's a lot of detail work. Second, because you want something different. It could be just a case or lighting. A better reason might be internals. I did it because I wanted a basically cheap design with a RAID array.If you're just trying to save money, look at manufacturers' outlets for refurbished PCs.
- I have built uncountable PC's over the past 12 years or more for both myself and for others. I will have to admit that the prices from the big brands are much more competitive now than they once were. The one fault that I find with the big name OEM's is the insistence of loading Windows on all the PC's they put together. It is a really presumptuous quirk they have. I have to still rely on building my own because they load Windows on them without giving any thought to the fact that some would-be customers may not want Windows on the PC they buy. The ones that do have to pay for it anyway, so why not give everyone the Option instead of simply charging forward. I let all my clients decide for themselves when I build their PC for them, if they want Windows, I charge them accordingly. When I first started building Windows was the preferred platform but I dare say that now I have about 60% that opt for A Linux distro, usually either Ubuntu or Fedora.
- At one time, Microsoft contracts with OEMs provided that MS be paid on the basis of the number of PCs shipped, not the number of O/S copies installed on those PCs. This forced OEMs to install Win on every box that went out the door. If I am not mistaken, these types of contracts were declared illegal by the DOJ.You and I and other PC enthusiasts/hobbyist are not the primary market for PC manufacturers. The vast majority of people who buy computers would be totally lost if that computer had no O/S. PC manufacturers cater to that vast majority. Also, the extra few dollars they can charge for each box with Windows installed, generates a lot of revenue for them.
- What about the comparison between laptops? Even though laptop are much weaker than its counterparts, how do they fare among PCs with similar specs?
- There are very few possibilities of building one's own laptop. You may update/upgrade a laptop but that is a different subject.
- @f71e84e8, I have the skills needed to build my own PC, and I've purchased a Windows XP license back in the day, and would do it again if needed (although I wouldn't need it, since I'm now 100% Linux on all my computers and have no use for Windows). What I don't understand is why anyone would choose to pirate instead of not purchasing a legal copy, and expose themselves to potential legal trouble. If you don't want to pay, use Linux or BSD and be happy. If you need/want Windows, pay your dues. It's that simple.
- Building your own gives you an sense of accomplishment. It is also an invaluable learning experience.
Building your own allows you to choose the exact components you want. It allows you to cut back on components you do not consider important and splurge on those that you do.
Building your own allows you to cut costs by using refurbished parts. Or keep costs the same and use better parts.
Building your own gives you the choice of close to 300 Linux, BSD and Solaris distros instead of only 3 Windows versions (7, 8.x & 10) - Oh, please, who pays for windows anyway? I've been running Linux since 2004, but the last time I heard of someone actually buying windows was probably 5 years earlier
- Let me introduce myself..
Hi! I'm Kelsey! I built a high-end (for the time) gaming system almost three years ago and gladly bought a Windows license (Win 7) because:A) I'm not a thief, andB) I like Windows games.Oh..C) after playing around with Linux distros for a while, I discovered that I don't have the smarmy self-righteous attitude for it.I built my own PC (as I've done many, many times over the last 20-odd years) because I DIDN'T want to skimp on the hardware, not because I was trying to build something out of nothing. Three years later it's still a powerhouse, and the money was VERY well spent..on the hardware and the software.
According to Michael Bluejay, who also goes by Mr. Electricity, it costs from $631 to $5.50 per year to power a PC.
Even Mr. Electricity admits that's quite a range. A more typical annual energy bill for a Windows desktop PC that uses an LCD monitor and has sleep mode enabled is less than $10.
Microsoft's free Joulemeter program lets you calculate the power used by a Windows desktop or laptop. Joulemeter's developers intend the program to be used in conjunction with an external power meter when measuring a desktop's energy consumption, although the program's Manual Entry option generates an approximate power-usage number; the energy use of laptops is determined without requiring an external power meter.
For precise calculations of desktop power consumption, the Joulemeter user guide indicates that a WattsUp Pro power meter is required. WattsUp meters cost from $96 to $196 on the vendor's site.
The program also estimates the amount of energy being used by each application currently running. Enter the name of the program's executable file (such as 'firefox.exe') in the text box under Application Power on the Power Usage tab and click the Start button. You can also save the current readings to a file for future reference.
When I used Joulemeter's manual approach to estimate the energy consumed by two Windows 7 desktops and a Windows 8.1 laptop, the utility indicated that the desktops used about 75 watts an hour and the notebook about 25 watts an hour. Since our local power company charges an average of just more than 15 cents per kilowatt hour, our household's computer energy bill is in the vicinity of $1 a month.
Of course, this figure doesn't include the cost of powering our two iPhones and three tablets. In September 2012, Outlier's Barry Fischer calculated the cost of charging an iPhone 5 and a Galaxy S3 for one year at 41 cents and 53 cents, respectively. In a post from June 2012, Don Reisinger reported that an iPad's annual energy bill comes to $1.36, according to a study conducted by the Electric Power Research Institute.
No matter how you slice it, that's a lot less juice consumed by our gadgets and computers than is used by other household appliances. According to Mr. Electricity's TV energy use calculator, a 46-inch Samsung LCD TV that is watched an average of 5 hours a day runs up an annual energy tab of just under $47. That's the equivalent of 537 pounds of CO2 pumped into the atmosphere, according to the calculator's figures.
A little energy conservation goes a long way
In the spirit of upcoming Earth Day, here are a handful of ways to minimize your household energy use.
Sleep mode saves time, money, and the environment.
According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency's EnergyStar FAQ, using your computer's power-saving modes can save you up to $50 a year. I don't know where the EPA got that figure, but it's clear using less energy saves much more than money.
On the How-To Geek site, Chris Hoffman explains the differences between Windows' Sleep, Hibernate, and Shutdown modes. Unfortunately, sleep mode often causes more problems than it solves. The Microsoft Support site provides potential solutions to many sleep-mode glitches.
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Turn off power at the source.
The Green Options site offers tips for reducing 'vampire' power, which is the energy drained by devices that are 'off' but still plugged in. Among the tips are to unplug chargers when you're not using them, switch off power strips, and use 'smart' power strips. In a post from last week, Ry Crist described the Quirky Pivot Power Genius, one of the new products from home-automation vendor SmartThings.
The various power modes of modern electronics make it difficult to determine exactly when a device is 'off.' The American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy (they could save some energy by coming up with a shorter name) explains the power modes of home electronics and offers advice on what to look for when shopping for energy-efficient appliances and devices.
Pc Part Picker
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7 best Prime Day shopping tips: Master these to snag the best deals on July 15.